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|10-11-2010, 09:09 PM||#1|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Gamertag: x UKe x Lyall
Hints and tips, to car setup and expert driving.
Am writing this as a hints and tips guide. It is also aimed at people struggling to understand the finer points of the game. The cornering and driving hints and tips deal with assists turned off and with tyre and fuel simulation on, I have tried to explain each area of car as simple as possible without being to technical or in huge detail.
Slow corners: Hairpins, chicanes is where you lose or gain most of your time and are great overtaking opportunities if mastered. Because you drop so much speed to get round them, you need a lot of acceleration to get back up to racing speed. Too much acceleration too quickly and you will lose the backend. You need to brake to the right speed and carry enough speed, to drift around and only when you have completed the corner. Start to gently add power and increase. A more stable car setup will allow you to add more power earlier on in the exit, not add power earlier in the corner. You want a good traction line. Any racing driver will tell you slow in, fast out.
Hairpins: These can be a little bit troublesome. The trick is momentum. To brake as late as possible, but still carry enough momentum/speed to complete the turn without needing to add power. If the car is easly hitting the apex and looks like it is about to stop, your going too slow. Turning should be 90-100% full lock, lowering as you pass the apex and power added as you come out of the corner.
Fast corners: Long sweeping bends. You will not lose or gain much time in these corners. You will also have good traction in these corners. However entering and exit of these corners is a lot different. Because you have more speed and more traction the car is more stable, you are less likely to lose the backend, however you are still going to need a good traction line to maintain that speed and increase it in the exit. These corners are where a major part of your down-force comes into play. A higher down-force means you can take the corner faster on the same traction line. You can take the corner sharper, but be warned. This will make the backend more unstable and increase tyre wear. Get it wrong you will lose the backend and time.
S bends can be taken in two ways. You can brake a little just before entering each corner and power through, you will gain some time, but this again can make the backend unstable and risk a poor exit and entrance into the next corner and lose lots of time. You can however use less power and coast through them, your car will be a lot more stable and be able exit and enter each corner with little effort. You won't gain time, but you also won't lose any.
Obviously sticking lots of wing angle on the front and back will increase down-force and make the car faster and more stable in fast corners. However this will ultimately slow the car down on straight line speed. A high down force in low speed corners is pointless. A high front down force results in sharper turning. A high rear down force improves acceleration out of slow speed. A well balanced down force will help through fast corners. As it pushes the car down on the ground giving more traction to front and back.
People seem to think, if you stick high pressure and large brakes on, they can brake later and take the corner faster. That only works on circuits like Suzuka-Japan, high speeds and lots slow of corners. Ok larger brakes are only good if your using them a lot and using them to take a lot of speed off, basicly they overheat less if use them a lot. However if you don't use them that often and only to take a little speed off, they will be cold. Meaning they are useless. They also weigh more, so in fast corners your car will be less likely to hold traction.
High, medium and low pressure are just as effective, the difference is how quick the brakes respond. If you have high pressure and ABS on, of course you can brake late. If you have high pressure and no ABS, you will more likely lock up, hit the car you were trying to miss or fly pass the corner you should have been going around. Unless you have mastered braking with no ABS.
The brake balance has to be 50/50 if you down force, ballast and suspension is 50/50. If you brake balance does not match your cars overall balance. Then they will not work correctly.
Ballast works in conjunction with other setting in your car. So if you have more down force on the back of your car, the front will become light and you will lose front grip. So frontend braking and turning will suffer. so you need to move the ballast forward to balance it out. A light backend will offer less traction and spinning the car will result.
Anti-roll bars are basically there to stop your car becoming unbalanced in sharp cornering. i.e. without them if you make a hard left. The right side will sink low and the left side will lift and so will the wheels causing the car to under steer. So with them, you turn hard left and they push the left of the car down and all four wheels are planted on the ground gaining more traction and greater turning. So you need them nice and hard for lots of hard cornering. Well not exactly. If they are too stiff, The car will not turn as sharply and running over a kerb on the left, will transfer that bump over to the right as well and bounce the car. If you happen to be turning at the moment, the car will become very unstable. Finding a good balance will vary from track to track and will take trial and error to get right.
Ride height if set low, will help your car go fast in straight lines as well fast corners and allow you to brake late. However bumps and kerbs will make the car unstable, especially in corners. If the ride height is set high, kerbs and bumps won't really be a problem, but down force will suffer and so will speed. Braking will also suffer, especially if your spring stiffness is soft.
Spring stiffness. This is a setting that has to be balanced with braking, car balance and ride height and alignment. If the front springs are set hard, the car will be more responsive like speed, braking and small steering adjustments. but overall cornering will suffer, kerbs and bump will make the car unstable. Set the front springs soft and the car will be slugish and lose traction, baking distance will also increase, but bumps and kerbs will present less of a problem and cornering will become easier to a point. A rear hard spring, will improve more speed and responsive handling. Meaning you are more likely to spin the car. However too soft and the car will lose power and braking.
A car with low ride height and soft springs, will not help with kerbs or bumps as the wheels or suspension has no room to move. A high ride height with stiff springs will reduce down force and bounce the car uncontrollably off the kerbs. Again The setup will vary from track to track and trial and error to get it right.
The game automatically sets up the lowest gear for the slowest corner on the track, so I wouldn't really mess around with the lower gears. However if you feel you are not getting the full speed out of the car on long straights. Then increase the last 3 gears a bit at a time, so the car hits its top speed just as you are about to brake. The higher you set the last/end gear, the more time and distance the car will need to hit that top speed. No point in setting it to 336kph if the car won't reach that speed in time. You will also be slowing down acceleration. Also in long/fast corners If you can take it full throttle in third or fourth, but you are hitting the rev limit half way through. Slightly increase those gears, but again a bit at a time. The gear box has to have a smooth power curve. So increasing a single gear heavily without changing others around it, will result in loss of power when changing gears.
A heavy engine degradation is going to cost you power. You can swap engine units in the career mode and you are going to cause lots of engine damage in long practice sessions fine tuning your car setups. So practice and setup your car in time trial. You will have to still slightly fine tune the car in practice, but at least your 90% there, with little to no engine wear. Plus in time trial it is only you on the track.
Throttle map is also another over looked part of the car. A fast throttle map will give you greater acceleration, which is good if you are going through fast corners and entering long straights, but if you are coming out of slow corners or hard corners. You will more likely spin the car. This option is also one you can change during the race, with the D-pad. Just remember to set it up before approaching the corners. Unless you can brake, shift down, turn at the right angle and use the D-pad to select the correct throttle all at the same time.
Last edited by defiant4eva; 10-20-2010 at 01:32 PM. Reason: updating
|10-11-2010, 09:12 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Gamertag: x UKe x Lyall
Camber is the angle that the vertical axis of the wheel makes with the road surface. Negative/low camber is when the top of the wheel leans into the centre of the car. Positive/high camber is when the top of the wheel leans out. So High camber front and back will increase cornering and stability. However it will reduce straight line speed and increase tyre wear. You will have to pick which one is more important to you. High speed circuits with fast corners will suit a balanced to light low camber setting and a low speed circuit with hard corner will suit a heavy low camber setting.
When a pair of wheels is set so that their leading edges are pointed slightly towards each other, the wheel pair is said to have toe-in. If the leading edges point away from each other, the pair is said to have toe-out. Toe in will give better straight line speed and toe-out will increase cornering. However toe-out will increase your chances of spinning, because when rear wheel cars accelerate. The front wheels tend to toe-out and a slight turn in the steering magnifies this and the backend flips out. You can counter this with stiffer front anti-roll bars and suspension.
With fuel sim on, this adds an extra element to car handling and Qualifying strategy. In the race your car will start heavier and be more off balance, because of the amount of fuel you will be carrying. Don't try to adjust your car setup to counter-balance it. As the race progress's, your car will become more balanced, lighter and faster. Just drive a little less aggressively to begin with. Completing clean laps consistently, will gain you a lead over other cars. When you pit for new tyres, this is the time to go for it. The car will be lighter, faster and more stable.
I prefer long weekends, as you get to test the car on setup and both tyre strength in Q1 and Q2. This also reduces the back markers quailying times. I find them 1-2 seconds slower, giving you a greater chance of making it into the top 10, if you are struggling with a paticular track. Long weekends help the track rubber in more, giving you greater grip. Q1 you should use the Prime tyres to get a feel for the times you will get in the race and Q2, use the Option to get a feel for race speed on them and will get you into Q3. Which is the real shootout session.
Hopefully you have practiced the track to death, while setting up your car in P1, P2, P3, Q1 and Q2. So fuel the car light about 4 laps of fuel, if you think you need 2 flying lap to set a good time. 3 laps of fuel if you know you need only 1 to get a good time. Just remember you start on the tyres you set your fastest lap on. So if you stay out longer on that set. You are taken valuable racing laps off them. If you know you can do better, then pit. Select a new set and refuel the car again and always do an out lap, never go straight to a flying lap. The computer never uses the full speed of your car, when it releases you on the start line. It also can release you directly behind another car or on some circuits at an offset angle.
It is important to get a good start. There is no point starting in pole if you lose 4 spots before the first corner. Hold the accelerator just before the red line appears. When you set off you need to shift up too 2nd as soon as the red rev line appears and again for 3rd. Defend against any car is pointless, unless you got a bad start. Just make sure you’re in the right position for the first corner. 9 times out of ten the inside car will brake early to make the corner, but give that corner a bit of a gap, you don't want to hit him. This is one of the most important part of the race. You can gain a lot of positions and gain the lead, which means you are leading instead of following and playing catch up. Following a car alters your cars handling and driving more than you might think. Hopefully you made the first corner and didn't get tangled up with another car. You will need to get your car up to racing speed, but go easy your tyres and brakes will not be at the right temp yet and will need at least a third or 2 thirds of lap to get there. Also remember the weight of the car due to fuel, so handling will be slightly off. Don't worry about your times or other cars. Concentrate on what corner is next, the braking distance, which speed and gear you need to be in, where the ideal traction line is, how much throttle you can use on the exit. Your goal is to complete clean lap after clean lap. If you’re getting them right, you will be gaining a lead. If you can gain a 20-30sec gap before you first pit, you have no worries about pitting and regaining the lead. Realistically your looking to minimise damage when you do pit. However you will be on fresh tyres and a lighter car and the track should have rubbered in. So now is your time to go for it. To maybe gain some position back or gain a better lead in case you have to pit again.
Manual pitting is easy, your engineer will tell you when to hit the limiter and when to brake. However due to a glitch, you could pit in first and leave in last position. So to counter this, try to pit early or pit later than the recommended pit strategy. You can only alter this strategy before the race. You can manually radio the pit that you want to pit, whenever you want, but remember to do it before entering the third sector and to select which type of tyres you want from the D-pad. Another known glitch is some drivers don’t pit through the entire race. If you manage to gain the lead after pitting, don’t worry about it. If however they are far ahead. You can continue and hope they pit, gain back the lead or restart the race.
Also make sure to check your throttle map setting. The game always sets it to standard before the start of each race. Change it before you go to the grid.
Weather setup and driving
A wet setup is not that much more different than a dry car setup. You will need a little extra down force, a higher gear setting (higher gear setting mean slower acceleration), a slower fuel map and low pressure brakes and re-balancing the car. The intermediate or full wets will compensate more than you think. However you will need to brake earlier and softer. Approach corners slower, less aggressively and avoid kerbs. Extra care will be need while accelerating out of corners. However AI drivers are much slower in rain on a lot of tracks than they should be.
Constructive criticism is welcome. Any extra tips will be added and credit given. This is also a work in progress. Some refining and editing will follow. If this hints guide does not answer your Question message me here or XBL I will try to help. No random FR
Last edited by defiant4eva; 10-23-2010 at 03:53 PM.